Posts made by Dobry Kolacz

Easiest way to get to the ESC would be remove the connectors that are circled in red

Remove the circled screws [PH1 drive] and cut the zip tie with the arrow pointing towards it

Remove these 2 screws [PH1 drive]

Remove these 2 screws [PH1 drive]

And finally, to get the board stack removed, you'll unscrew these 4 hex screws [1.5mm Hex Drive]

WHEN REMOVING THOSE HEX SCREWS, BE SURE THE CIRCLED STANDOFFS DO NOT ROTATE AT ALL, THIS COULD CAUSE THE SCREWS COMING FROM THE OTHER SIDE OF THE STANDOFF TO GET LOOSE
Keep these by rotating by carefully holding them in place with needle nose pliers or something similar

When re-assembling, just make sure all screws going into those standoffs are nice and snug (coming from both the top side and bottom side)

@griffin Take a look at the drone and realize each motor has 3 wires and 3 pads on the ESC board they get soldered to. Each motor must be soldered to it's corresponding set of 3 pads. Once you get the wires long enough to be mounted to the frame and solder up to the pads, make sure you match your new motor wires to the correct set of pads for that motor (reference which pads your motors are currently soldered to). However, you won't have to worry too much about which wire goes to what pad (within the 3 pads available for your motor). If a motor is spinning the wrong way, you can reverse the motor rotation within QGC in the "actuator" menu. Alternatively, you can swap 2 of the wires with each other within the 3 pads/wires that are meant for that particular motor.
https://drones.stackexchange.com/questions/80/how-can-i-reverse-the-direction-of-a-brushless-motor
This link describes the same process, just in different words

@Syed-Omair Follow the Red/Black/Yellow cables coming out of the flight core to the receiver

@bendraper Are you working with a VOXL 2 flight deck?
What kind of values are you getting for the right and left intrinsics?
Have you tried running the whole calibration a few times from a position where the left and right intrinsics are good? Sometimes it's as simple as a lighting issue and a small adjustment in the positioning of the device relative to the room's lighting can make a meaningful difference. And sometimes running just extrinsics will not produce an acceptable result even if your intrinsics are good.

If you've already ran through several calibrations with no success, I wonder if there is any offset in the cameras' positioning. This can come from a physical offset in the stereo camera mounting, but it can sometimes be related to the internal construction of the sensor itself (sometimes the image sensor is offset to the lens which leads to the stereo images not being on the same plane).
If you send a screenshot of the camera calibration overlay screen with your calibration board's top edge aligned with the top edge of the camera's view, it would provide me some more insight into your particular setup. I'm specifically looking to see if, for example, on one side you might have the top of the board aligned with the top of the camera's view while the other camera's image may have the top edge of the board significantly over or under the top of the camera's view.

@rohitpillai do you have a spare mcbl-0001 you can try on this setup?

@rohitpillai When you removed the extension cable, were you still plugging the tracking camera into the M0054 board directly?

@Tamas-Pal-0 What is the "quality" readout before takeoff when you run voxl-inspect-qvio ?

@張為超
run "voxl-inspect-qvio -n" to see a readout of qvio positioning and number/quality of features the camera is seeing

I would recommend re-calibrating the compass within QGC to possibly fix the issue with altitude mode issues

I would also recommend cleaning the camera lenses with a clean cotton swab or microfiber cloth as the camera might have gotten dirty, resulting in interference with qvio's ability to work

QVIO is used for height/positioning when you are running your drone on the indoor vio parameters. This can be set up on both M500 and Seeker drones

Though I cannot answer your question about sourcing/ordering a motor replacement, I just want to point out that there are two washers placed in between each motor and arm on the drone frame. Each arm has the washers installed in a specific location to aid handling. Observe and take note of the washer position so when you take off and replace the motor, you will be able to properly reinstall the washers

@Daniel-Ryu The stereo sensors' lens can be adjusted which will change their focus. Looking at the videos you provided it seems to me that you should be able to achieve a lower reprojection error if you adjust the focus on the units. It looks like the VOXL1 is getting a better reprojection error number because the cameras are fairly close to in focus and there isn't much blurr/fuzz in the video stream. On your VOXL2 setup it looks to me that either the camera is out of focus or the lens is dirty.

To adjust the focus on our stereo cameras twist the lens housing clockwise or counterclockwise similarly to how you would on a DSLR lens. Look closely at the stereo cams and you will see 4 flat edges. I recommend using a 6mm wrench to engage 2 of the flat edges; from there you'll be able to rotate and adjust the lens as needed. It is possible to use something like tweezers or small pliers to accomplish this however I recommend against that method because it is too easy for the tool to slip off and end up scratching the lens.

To clean the lens I recommend using a clean microfiber cloth, a lens tissue, or a fresh q-tip

@rohitpillai said in Sentinel Cameras distorted:

eems to

Which camera are you talking about? The Stereo and HiRes sensors on sentinel have manually adjustable focus

@Uros
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@VictorT
Were you able to successfully calibrate after focusing/cleaning? The M0015-1 sensors should have no issues calibrating after they are properly focused as long as there are no scratches in the lens. Are they mounted in a VOXL Flight Deck?

@VictorT
I recommend viewing the images through Portal to check the focus of the stereo sensors as it may need to be adjusted. It is possible the focus may have changed due to handling and/or shipping. Refocusing can improve your reprojection error.
To adjust the focus, a 6mm wrench fits perfectly on the flat edges of the lens. If needed, you can use some pliers/forceps/something similar to grab hold of the outer edges of the lens, just use extreme caution to not allow the jaws to slip off and scratch the lens. Pay more attention to the focus in the center of the image as sometimes there is blur around the outer edges of the image.
Also worth mentioning is that the lenses might be dirty (fingerprints, dust, etc) . They can be gently cleaned with a microfiber cloth or similar.

Stereo sensors have adjustable lenses. Indicated in the photo is the part that can be screwed in or out to change the focus.

There are four flat edges around the lens, a 6mm wrench fits perfectly on the flat edges and is the best way to adjust the focus. You can also use tweezers or pliers to adjust the lens, just be careful because you don't want to have the tool slip off and scratch the stereo lens.

When focusing, pay attention to the center of the image, sometimes there can be some blurriness around the edges of the image even when the center of the image is in good focus. As long as the center of the image is in focus, you should be able to get a good calibration.
Try to have both cameras focused to the same point for best results.

My apologies for the delay in response,
So just to be clear, the images you provided are from the setup where VOA was working? The offset is odd, but the flight decks are calibrated and ready to go before they ship out so I'm wondering if that setup had any issues before the stereo camera was replaced.
The flight deck doesn't have any obvious defects from the photos you provided (the mounting screws seem to be tight, the front plate seems to be straight, and from what I can tell the stereo cameras are fully secured.
Judging on your photos, I would say that the right camera could definitely be a bit more in focus (the left camera seems to be perfectly in focus). It's easiest to tell based on your voxl1-log images.
Though I don't think this is necessarily contributing to your issues, it is worth mentioning that sometimes the lenses benefit from being cleaned with a clean q-tip or a microfiber cloth.

Are you 100% sure your USB C cable is fully plugged into the drone? Some cables are a bit too fat and can't fully seat into the port.

Would you mind sending a photo of what your flight deck front plate looks like? I would like to see how the stereo cameras look/are mounted. The differences between your right and left stereo cameras seem a bit uncharacteristic for a VOXL flight deck (which is weird because you are saying those photos are coming from your setup before you replaced the stereo camera).

The other thing I noticed in the photos you provided was that the right stereo camera was slightly less in focus than the left stereo camera. I have the most success calibrating cameras when their focus is more closely matched. I look at the center of the image to gauge focal clarity as there are some stereo cameras that have some slight blurring at the edges of the image which can be misleading when adjusting focus.

Hello,

We offer a few different hires cameras that are compatible with VOXL

Is there any way you could send a photo of what your hires camera looks like? Most of them can be manually refocused

Thanks

You can also get a different idea of what the camera is seeing by adding a "-t" to the end of the code line. For example: "voxl-calibrate-camera stereo -t "
This makes it easier to gauge if the lighting is good and can provide a different perspective which might make calibration easier.